May Fools: An Indulgent Chef's Table Tasting

Plate design sketches for the May Chef's Table event at the Whist Club

Certainly one of the most enjoyable parts of crafting a seasonal menu is the exclusivity of it all.  Having bragging rights about the first-of-the-season anything makes a nine-course, seasonal menu tasting even more exclusive.  As we continue into the warmer weather, some of the region's best known (and beloved) ingredients show up on the plate.  With more exotic ingredients, we explore more uncommon grape varietals, like marsanne and gewurztraminer.  Classic blends with a twist were featured, like the Schramsberg Cellars Blanc de Noirs- an almost 80-20% blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, and Bonny Doon's Chateauneuf du Pape blend, Le Cigare Volant provided unimaginable depth to the flavors we aimed to coax from the ingredients.  And, so it went something like this...

The Chef’s Table

at the

University and Whist Club

Of Wilmington

May 19, 2011

Reception

Grilled Octopus Escabèche

Chive Blossom Tempura

Schramsberg, Blanc de Noirs, California, 2007

Tempura Fried Chive Blossoms with Rice Wine Dipping Sauce

Braised Octopus Escabeche: in the style of Spain

Amuse Bouche

Mission fig, Foie Gras curls and Blackberry-Balsamic Caviar

First of the Season Mission Figs via California

Figs and Foie, yes; but blackberry balsamic caviar?  Oh yeah.

Friend and Florist Dominique Ho of Le Sentier provided the quintessential May bouquet of Peonies

First Course

Lobster Carpaccio

cape gooseberries, young herbs, nori and persimmon vinaigrette

Navarro Vineyards, Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley, California, 2008

A lobster "carpaccio" with cape gooseberry, citrus herb mix, persimmon vinegar

One of my favorite pairings of the night, the Navarro Vineyards 2008 Gewurztraminer with the Lobster Carpaccio

Second Course

Softshell Crab

spicy almond flour, melon and sorrel

Qupe, Marsanne, Santa Ynez Valley, California, 2009

Another season first: Softshell Crabs awaiting their fate

Almond flour dredged softshell with melon, young sprout salad and sorrel puree

Intermezzo

Peach-Ginger Granita

A clean, refreshing Peach and Ginger Granita- a taste of May!

Main

Smoked Moulard Duck Breast

oxtail ravioli and porcini, dried cherry jus

Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Volant, Santa Cruz, 2006

Sous Chef Andrew Ramage makes the pasta for the oxtail ravioli just hours before the dinner.

The completed dish: house smoked moulard duck breast with oxtail ravioli, porcini and sour cherry jus

Cheese

Delices de Bourgogne, pistachio, truffle honey

Chateau Cantenac-Brown, Margaux, 2003

The sensual Delices de Bourgogne with truffle infused honey, toasted pistachio and feuilles de brick

Dessert

Berry-Almond Shortcake

Vanilla cream and thai Basil

Fresh berries in basil oil, almond biscuit and vanilla clotted cream

Friandises

Nougat, Gianduja Chocolate, Strawberry and Coffee

Caposaldo, Prosecco

Chewy nougat, strawberry-coconut confection, espresso bon-bon and gianduja chocolate square with pine nut

Beautiful chive blossoms; lovely to look at, delicious to eat.

Chef Quote of the Week: Alain Ducasse

On wine:  "There are no rules...You have to taste the wine with an open mind. You can drink red wine with lobster and white wine with lamb."

Chef also adds, "The world of wine is more creative than the world of cooking...There are so many impassioned winemakers. I think there are more impassioned winemakers than chefs."  Click for the full interview with the WSJ

Chef Alain Ducasse 

Pork: Just Take It Easy

Pork: The Other White Meat.

Pork: Be Inspired. 

Pork, the one you love.  No, wait.

Pork:  You're Overcooking It.  And, we knew it.  

Yes, not only is pork not a white meat, the bloody USDA (pun intended) has finally come clean and officially declared that pork is safe to eat if cooked to 145F, not the disastrously moisture reducing 160F.  

In other news, John Boehner is sensitive.

Look:  we all knew it, but it became so ingrained in our consciousness that it's like the story of the elephant who is able to be tethered by only a loose rope.  We can't disobey.  Well, my fellow carnivores, let thy spirit be free!  Wok on the wild side!  Waltz into your local bisto and proudly order the pork tenderloin...dum dum DUM!...medium!  I mean, after all, that's how we've been serving it to you, so we might as well come clean.  Yes, I said it: a chef/kitchen HATES to have food sent back, especially when it's not even been tasted, but more than that, we hate to send food out that's overcooked by your request.  So, we cook it until it is "done" and sauce over it to hide the perceived pink.  Think I'm kidding?  Ask a guy in white.

I realize I'm probably preaching to the choir here, but in simple terms, cuts of meat that are lower in, or even devoid of fat  (see buffalo, venison, elk, boar) are simply unpalatable when cooked to well-done and devoid of color.  But, you continue to ask for them that way.  Insert line about sheep and pork here.

So, what about the cuts with more fat, like the shoulder, picnic, belly, butt, osso buco, etc?  Well, duh.  Fat is flavor.  And, let's be honest- a mouthful of meat that is laden with too much fat is just nasty.  Cooking is about balance.  Cook those cuts of meat slower, lower and longer.  Let the fat render slowly to season the meat, while providing the optimal amount of flavor.

 That's all, folks.

The End is Nigh! Let the Rapture Begin!

Yeah.  It's like that.  See you all next week.

Happy Mother's Day