Take Stock: The 5th Annual Stock Up For Seniors Sale!

About 15 years ago I first became affiliated with Meals on Wheels Delaware when asked to participate in their Celebrity Chef's Brunch while chef at Deep Blue.  Over those years, it's given me immense pleasure and personal satisfaction to be affiliated with this organization.  I have met innumerable good friends, shared some great laughs and memories, cooked in the homes of some wonderful people, drank some amazing wines, and cooked some really great food.  I never dreamed all that fun would actually equate to raising millions of dollars to help provide home-bound seniors in Delaware with hot, nutritious meals.  It must be how The Boss feels when he does a benefit concert!  Everyone wins.

But, that's only half the story.  Now in its 5th year, the Annual Stock Up for Seniors event teams Meals on Wheels Delaware with the warehouses of luxury cookware brands EmileHenry, Rösle, Duralex, Mauviel 1830, and Lékué located in New Castle, Delaware.  The weekend warehouse sale gives Delawareans a chance to stock up on kitchen and cookware at deep discounts while the good people of Emile Henry USA donate proceeds to MOW Delaware.  Another win-win.  

On the evening of Dec. 6, 2012, shoppers will have an opportunity to shop exclusively and get first pick of the sale items, which continues through Sunday, December 9.  A mere $25 (which also goes to MOW) gives you this amazing privilege.  And, just to show you we care, I'll be on hand preparing all sorts of delicious appetizers and snacks for you to feast on while you shop.  I'll demonstrate a classic risotto with locally foraged mushrooms, parsnips and Winter Black Truffles.  Or, how about a simmering pot of Fall Squash and Apple Bisque?  Got that, too.

This is an event that, like M.O.W., is becoming a true Delaware tradition.  But, get your tickets today and get there early, because this event sells out fast!

Saluting a Mentor and Master

When cooking for someone of importance, there is an undeniable motivating energy that comes while doing so.  You have an extra "umph" to your slice, an extra "snap!" to your dice.  When I first got out of school, I made a goal of setting a standard: "Never put out a plate that you wouldn't be proud of serving one of your instructors [from CIA]."  I still use that credo today.  But, when you're cooking to posthumously honor someone- and a very famous someone at that- not only do you step it up, but you feel a twinge of apprehension and a pang of pensiveness.  "Must- not- mess- this- up."  

Mind you, high-end restaurants do their best work when the conditions are just right.  That is, the tone is set by the chef and drives the rest of the kitchen.  Create some "healthy anxiety" (as Charlie Trotter would say) and you'll get a lot more out of your people.  They know it, too.  When preparing the same food, day-after-day, this kind of diversion can be a welcomed change in the line-up.  Such as it was earlier this month at The Whist Club.  We honored the late Julia Child on what would have been her 100th birthday with a special Chef's Table event.  All the courses were chosen from or inspired by her essential cookbooks and ground-breaking cooking show.  

As I spent the days leading up to the dinner, I became engrossed in Julia's books (Mastering the Art of French Cooking Vols. 1&2 and The French Chef).  Having met Julia while employed by the Virginia Hotel in Cape May as dining room manager, I felt a certain connection that brought me back to her memorable presence.  And, what's not to love about her off-the-cuff, self-deprecating style of charm?  You can actually hear her voice when you read the recipes.  I can't say that about very many cookbooks I own.  And so, with precision and determination, my team performed admirably.  A great time was had by all.  Here is the menu and some shots from the dinner.

THE CHEF’S TABLE

at the

UNIVERSITY and WHIST CLUB

of WILMINGTON

CELEBRATES JULIA CHILD’S

100^TH BIRTHDAY

AUGUST 16, 2012

Diner en Bleu
a nod to Julia's alma mater, Le Cordon Bleu

RECEPTION

MOUSSE DE FOIE DE POULET

PALMIERS GOURMANDES

Gosset Brut Excellence, NV

Outstanding, robust style of sparkling
from the oldest Champagne house in France

Chicken Liver Mousse, p. 559 Mastering the Art of French Cooking  Vol. 1, here on toasted brioche with fig jam and chervil

Our version of "palmiers" or elephant ears- savory;
one with sundried tomatoes, the other with pesto and goat cheese

AMUSE BOUCHE

RIZ DE VEAU

VEAL SWEETBREADS, BEECH MUSHROOM, COGNAC

A not-so-timid bite to begin:
dusted lightly in almond flour with cognac demi-glace and mushroom

FIRST COURSE

POTAGE AU CRESSON

WATERCRESS SOUP WITH POACHED OYSTERS

Domaine du Carrou Sancerre "La Jouline"

Vieilles Vignes 2010

Velvety and fresh- the oysters from Cape May (Salts), NJ

SECOND COURSE

SOLE À LA NORMANDE

FILLETS OF SOLE WITH SHELLFISH, MUSHROOMS AND TRUFFLES

J.M. Boillot Meursault, 2008

Delicate fillets of Dover sole with shrimp-scallop vin blanc,
black truffles and mushroom

INTERMEZZO

MOUSSE AUX PECHE, GLACÉE

PEACH SHERBET

with candied ginger

MAIN

BOEUF À LA BOURGUIGNONNE

BRAISED BEEF, RED WINE, HAND-CUT NOODLES

Château Bahans Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, 2000    

Julia recommends buttered peas- but, we couldn't resist the Doc Martin limas we got earlier that day.

Hand-cut pappardelle noodles for the stew.

CHEESE

TOMME DE SAVOIE, PICO, SAINT AGUR

AND ÉPOISSES; SUGAR PLUMS

DESSERT

VIENNESE CARDINAL SLICE

Mas Amiel Muscat de Rivesaltes, 2009

layered meringue, genoise, espresso mousse with almond Anglaise

MIGNARDISES

PETIT FOURS AND MACARONS  

As always, a little last few bites: apricot petit fours, chocolate-cherry and strawberry macarons.

EXECUTIVE CHEF ROBERT A LHULIER

SOUS CHEFS ANDREW RAMAGE and STEPHEN SETH

PASTRY CHEFS DEBORA SAIENNI

and MICHAEL PRESKE

UPDATE:  See a feature article in the Wilmington News Journal that ran today on the dinner!  And more photos on the Second Helpings Blog.

RE-UPDATED: Ok- and now some video, too!  This from Signature Brandywine Editor Lucia Blackwell (also in attendance for the dinner).

Spring Comes to Dinner

The Chef's Table at University Whist Club had been on hiatus, but last night it returned with a seasonal flourish. Here's what was on the table.

May 24, 2012

Reception

Lobster Medallions on Brioche with Strawberry-Mango Relish

Roast Beef and Lettuce Wrap with Jicama Slaw and Horseradish

Roederer L’Ermitage Brut, NV

Amuse Bouche

Black Bass Tiradito

finger limes, avocado, celery seed oil

Steeger St. Jost Riesling, Kabinett Halbtrocken Wingut,

Ratzenberger, 2010

Persimmon Vinegar and Mirin, Tangerine Lace and Pink Peppercorn

First Course

Southern Fried Soft-Shell Crab

smoked ham gravy

Darioush Chardonnay, Napa Valley, 2010

The smell of this dish was intoxicating.

Second Course

Guinea Hen Breast and Foie Gras

summer truffles

Ponzi, Pinot Noir, Reserve, Willamette, Oregon, 2003

(not pictured) 

Intermezzo

Kumquat and Honey Sorbet

Main

Korean Style Beef Short Rib

pickled heirloom vegetables

Domaine Combier, Crozes-Hermitage “Clos des Grives”, 2009

Layers of flavor; rubbed, braised and then charred with bean paste.  The greens were the tops of the mini veg.

Cheese

Brillat Savarin and Mission Fig

toasted hazelnuts

Simple; delicious.

Dessert

Blackberry-Rhubarb Crepe

orange zest syrup

Roero Brachetto “Fosso della Rosa”, Giovanni Almondo, 2011

(not pictured)

Mignardises

Coffee-Chocolate tartlet and pistachio madeleine

Chef Quote of the Week: Michel Richard

"Before nouvelle cuisine, no chef had the right to create their own dishes. You had to copy Escoffier.”  

Chef Michel Richard

on the late Jean Louis Palladin's contributions to the culinary world.

The mentality among the rank-and-file chefs back in France, notes Richard, went something like this: “Creating your own dish when I was a young man? Are you sick? You’re not smart enough to create your own dish.”

Richard is honoring Chef Palladin ten years after his death with a multi-course tribute meal at his DC eatery.   Read the article in the Washington Post here.

Local, Local, LOCAL!!!?

So, if you're like me, I'm starting to feel a little overwhelmed with the whole Fresh and Local thing (see my Out & About piece next month...)  But, I just read this on another blog about a 14 year old raising a 6-month young lamb with the New Castle County 4H Sheep Club (wow- who knew?) who then turned it over to a chef, who purchases them (alive presumably- would be kinda cruel to make the teens "off" the sheep they raise, no?)  And the pay-off is that you can eat this very same, increasingly famous lamb during Delaware Dines Out Week (reservations required, void where prohibited). 

We'll just call this "Strange Local News", and leave it at that.

But, I was reminded of this BRILLIANT clip from one of my favorite shows, Portlandia.  It's not too far off the mark...

The Farmer and The Chef

Foodies and Farmers unite!  Tonight is The March of Dimes' 4th Annual Farmer and The Chef event at the Chase Center in Wilmington.  One of the greatest food and wine events in Delaware, and it features all Delaware products, farmers, growers, chefs, brewers and talent.  If you call yourself a locavore, missing this would be like a sports fan missing the superbowl!  See you there~

A June Chef's Table

The Chef’s Table

at the

University and Whist Club

Of Wilmington

June 17, 2011

Reception

Crab and Corn Fritter~ Yellow tomato cocktail sauce

Venison Tartare

Matanzas Creek, Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County, 2007

Denver Leg of Venison provided for a nice alternative to beef tartare.  Balsamic caviar beads provided an unexpected burst of sweet and tart.

Sweet Corn and Crab: a classic pairing.  Yellow cocktail sauce was stripped down to its basic components: fresh horseradish, fresh tomato, vinegar and sugar.

Fresh hydrangeas were rescued from the yard.  In summer the club is surrounded by alternating powder blue and rust-purple blossoms.

Amuse Bouche

Chilled Tomatillo Soup

with Sope, toasted cumin and Fava Bean Puree

Chateau St. Michele, “Eroica” Riesling, Columbia Valley,

Washington, 2008

This close-up of the garnishes for the soup features a warm sope, corn relish, cilantro blossom and fava bean puree.

First Course

Mediterranean Mussels

Leeks, tomato, tarragon, semolina

Joseph Hofstätter, Pinot Bianco, Atlo Adige, 2009

Ten pounds of Mediterranean mussels gave their lives for this course.  Here they are simmering in leeks with their steaming liquid, white wine and butter.

With their counterparts: tomato, tarragon and toasty semolina bread.

Second Course

Veal Cannelloni

With Hand-packed ricotta, beech mushroom and sweetbread ragout

Domaine Dominique Guyon, Bourgogne,

Hautes Cotes de Nuits, 2009

Continuing with a course of hand-made pasta, a veal ragout and artisan ricotta fill a cannelloni, while beach mushrooms and sweetbreads back up the earthiness.

Intermezzo

Watermelon, Tomato Vine and Basil Sorbet

Main

All-Natural Dry Aged Beef Loin

Braised beet greens, poached garlic and sauce foyote

Marchesi Antinori, Tignanello, Tuscany, 2007

A whole strip loin was slow roasted and carved to order.  Placed atop tender braised beet tops with a traditional bearnaise sauce enhanced with fortified veal stock and roasted garlic cloves.  Magnificent with the Tignanello.

Cheese

Goat Cheese Tasting

Cowgirl Creamery “obanon”, Toma Della Roca, Midnight Moon

And Moilterno al Tartufo; macerated apricots

One of my favorite cheese courses yet, the truffle cheese was just as exciting as any- but the apricots macerated in riesling stole the show.

Dessert

Cherry Clafoutis

with Armagnac and Honey Ice Cream

Domaine Carneros, Rose “Cuvee de la Pompadour”, NV, Carneros

Perhaps one of my favorite desserts of all time, the classic Cherry Clafoutis, here with frangipan and cherry-port reduction.  The ice cream lent a decadent richness hard to put into words.

This wine (and winery) is very underrated.  Nearly all pinot noir, the fruit was superb for the clafoutis, and another refreshing summer course.

Friandises

French Macarons

Strawberry, pistachio, Lemon and Praline

Our pastry department came up big with these textbook French macarons. 

May Fools: An Indulgent Chef's Table Tasting

Plate design sketches for the May Chef's Table event at the Whist Club

Certainly one of the most enjoyable parts of crafting a seasonal menu is the exclusivity of it all.  Having bragging rights about the first-of-the-season anything makes a nine-course, seasonal menu tasting even more exclusive.  As we continue into the warmer weather, some of the region's best known (and beloved) ingredients show up on the plate.  With more exotic ingredients, we explore more uncommon grape varietals, like marsanne and gewurztraminer.  Classic blends with a twist were featured, like the Schramsberg Cellars Blanc de Noirs- an almost 80-20% blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, and Bonny Doon's Chateauneuf du Pape blend, Le Cigare Volant provided unimaginable depth to the flavors we aimed to coax from the ingredients.  And, so it went something like this...

The Chef’s Table

at the

University and Whist Club

Of Wilmington

May 19, 2011

Reception

Grilled Octopus Escabèche

Chive Blossom Tempura

Schramsberg, Blanc de Noirs, California, 2007

Tempura Fried Chive Blossoms with Rice Wine Dipping Sauce

Braised Octopus Escabeche: in the style of Spain

Amuse Bouche

Mission fig, Foie Gras curls and Blackberry-Balsamic Caviar

First of the Season Mission Figs via California

Figs and Foie, yes; but blackberry balsamic caviar?  Oh yeah.

Friend and Florist Dominique Ho of Le Sentier provided the quintessential May bouquet of Peonies

First Course

Lobster Carpaccio

cape gooseberries, young herbs, nori and persimmon vinaigrette

Navarro Vineyards, Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley, California, 2008

A lobster "carpaccio" with cape gooseberry, citrus herb mix, persimmon vinegar

One of my favorite pairings of the night, the Navarro Vineyards 2008 Gewurztraminer with the Lobster Carpaccio

Second Course

Softshell Crab

spicy almond flour, melon and sorrel

Qupe, Marsanne, Santa Ynez Valley, California, 2009

Another season first: Softshell Crabs awaiting their fate

Almond flour dredged softshell with melon, young sprout salad and sorrel puree

Intermezzo

Peach-Ginger Granita

A clean, refreshing Peach and Ginger Granita- a taste of May!

Main

Smoked Moulard Duck Breast

oxtail ravioli and porcini, dried cherry jus

Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Volant, Santa Cruz, 2006

Sous Chef Andrew Ramage makes the pasta for the oxtail ravioli just hours before the dinner.

The completed dish: house smoked moulard duck breast with oxtail ravioli, porcini and sour cherry jus

Cheese

Delices de Bourgogne, pistachio, truffle honey

Chateau Cantenac-Brown, Margaux, 2003

The sensual Delices de Bourgogne with truffle infused honey, toasted pistachio and feuilles de brick

Dessert

Berry-Almond Shortcake

Vanilla cream and thai Basil

Fresh berries in basil oil, almond biscuit and vanilla clotted cream

Friandises

Nougat, Gianduja Chocolate, Strawberry and Coffee

Caposaldo, Prosecco

Chewy nougat, strawberry-coconut confection, espresso bon-bon and gianduja chocolate square with pine nut

Beautiful chive blossoms; lovely to look at, delicious to eat.