F&C Rewind: Gold in the Air of Summer

Kings of Convenience "Gold in the Air of Summer"

Happy Thanksgiving

La Truffe au Coeur

One of the few remaining ingredients that must be foraged to make it to a high-end restaurant's kitchen is the elusive and exotic truffle.  The price for bringing them to the table is so high specifically because they can't be cultivated, only foraged, and only in a few choice locations in the world, such as Alba, Italy, Burgundy, France or the Northwestern United States.

A tiny bit of black truffle properly coerced by a hot pan will yield layer after layer of intense, earthy flavor that can cause the head to spin when paired with mushrooms, wild game and a big, bold red wine.  Shaved like hard cheese over risotto, pasta or eggs, the white truffle is the most expensive and highly prized of the various types of truffle available.  Unlike the black truffle, it requires no cooking or heat to activate the heady aromas.  They currently are priced at $2800 per pound.  Considering the dollar value of truffles, they far outpace the cost of street drugs or the risks associated with smuggling them.  Their intended uses are the same: unadulterated, decadent pleasure.

There is an entire culture throughout Europe where truffles are found.  Among those who hunt them and those who buy, the comparison to drugs is quite accurate, because if you reveal your source or your location, you're toast.  But, there is a romantic lure to truffles, as well.  Long considered an aphrodisiac, menus and dishes that contain fresh truffles have a way of making grown adults giddy as school children.  Or, lovers penning poems with comparisons to the moon, diamonds and women.  

This tribute is from The Illustrated London News, Saturday, August 26, 1882.  

(Author unknown) 

Lunaire

Ambiguë

Telle est la Truffe

Riche et Parfumée

Unique et Pure

Fille de la Terre

Féminine et Veloutée

Etonnante et Imprévisible

Noire elle Parait

Or en Fait Elle Est

Inimitable et Irremplaçable

Rare et Raffinée

Envoûtante et Inoubliable

Moonlight
Ambiguous
This is the Truffle
Rich and Fragrant
Unique and Pure
Daughter of the Earth
Feminine and Smooth
Amazing and Unpredictable
It Appears Black
Gold, In fact It Is
Inimitable and Irreplaceable
Rare and Refined
Haunting and Unforgettable

Truffles as poetry?  At the very least, yup.

F&C Rewind: Ugly Betty Foods

I am unabashedly fond of the Ugly Betty ingredients of the food world.  Not literally ugly, but like Betty, unpopular and misunderstood.  Maybe even a little kooky.  As we enter this season of earthy foods, I'm feeling like it's time to put some of these underappreciated gems in the spotlight.  

Brussels sprouts can be found on a lot more menus these days, especially among the small plate crowd.  But, I often hear people say they "hate" them.  So, I'll ask them if they'll try mine.  After scrunching their nose, they taste, and then the light goes on.  "They're not all CRUNCHY like my mom used to make!"  Very often a lot of the unsung veggies whose virtues I am about to sing are improperly prepared.  

Cooking good Brussels sprouts is a two-step process;  first, they need to be boiled vigorously in lots of extra salty water.  I prefer to cut them in half before I blanch them.  It helps them cook faster, more evenly and readies them for the next stage, searing the sprouts.  Pat these little guys dry after you've pulled them out of the ice bath, and put them in a nice, hot skillet or pan, cut side down, with some whole butter.  First, they're gonna steam and hiss at you.  Then, they'll start to crackle letting you know the butter is browning them nicely.  Take a little peek; when they're golden brown, turn 'em over for a minute or two to warm the back side; salt and/or pepper if necessary.  

That's the simple version.  The better, more delicious version includes adding smoky bacon at the beginning of the browning stage.  Mmmmmm- baaa-con.  The lardons of bacon, or fat little strips, should brown up at the same time as the sprouts.  So that's good; but wanna make it even better?  This week we'll be serving an appetizer of Brussels sprouts and bacon, but we're adding to the mix some house-made crispy duck confit and tossing the whole shootin' match with lentils.  Yeah.  It's like that.

Celery doesn't really generate the "ick" factor among people, but it does suffer from the misunderstood veggies complex.  Yes, that's a bonafide culinary term, BTW.  Yet, its versatility of flavor seems limitless.  If you're cooking anything with a liquid base, like a soup, stew or braise, celery is in there along with carrots and onions- called mire poix- because it creates a crucial backbone to the dish.  When you break out of the box and start putting it in your tomato sauce, for example, which when used with say, a Bolognese preparation, the flavor elevates like you can't believe. Its aroma is exotic, almost curry-like.  I also like to incorporate raw celery into dishes.  Salad is the most obvious; it excels in texture and the "fresh" factor.  Added to any mixture of cabbage to create a slaw, it is essential.  And, the tiny leaves that accompany the hearts of celery are both pungent and vibrant in any form of dish, cooked or uncooked.

If you're not into "earthy", it's unlikely you'll become a beet fan, no matter how many tips I give you for preparing them.  But, when I was first learning about the components of foods, i.e. proteins, starches, sugars, acids, etc., a lot of bells went off for me.  There are natural sugars in almost all foods, especially vegetables, but how you coax them out is the key.  For beets, I prefer to roast them.  Roasting is the process of using a slow, steady dry heat to cook a food.  So, if you follow this logic of roasting a vegetable naturally rich in sugars, you're going to eventually remove some of it's moisture, thereby intensifying the sugars.  Roasting beets in their jackets on a bed of salt is my favorite method for enjoying these, the most nerdy of all vegetables.  

The salt becomes a softer heat source than a metal roasting pan, and as such, doesn't burn the side of the beet that comes in contact with the hot pan.  It also precipitates the reduction of moisture and helps the beets cook faster.  But, enough of the scientific; what roasted beets contribute to a dish in terms of flavor is nothing short of brilliant.  I've had beets and corn that are similarly sweet and flavorful.  When you have a flavor component so vibrant, you can begin to pair it with equally vibrant components.  It's this reason that beets pair so well with brutish cheeses like bleu and chevre.  Sweet-creamy-earthy-pungent is just one of those unlikely, yet heavenly combos that work.  After that, it's just variations on a theme.  Replace sweet for sweet.  Dabble a little in what is fresh; for example, herbs like basil or tarragon.  Or, walk the line on your choice of cheeses in this scenario and you'll be delighted in what you discover.

The same concept of accentuating a food's sugars to produce more flavor can apply to my next wallflower, the parsnip.  This little albino carrot packs what has to be the most unique flavor profile of all root vegetables.  As with all roots, roasting can provide some of the most satisfying results.  Ever had a killer pork roast without potatoes, carrots and onions?  The slow, dry heat is the key.  Adding parsnips to the mix is the icing on your savory cake.  Anywhere you would use a carrot, go for a parsnip.  In soups, the simple addition of diced parsnips leaves people asking, "what was that flavor??"  Boiled, pureed and whipped into mashed potatoes is one of the most revelatory "first" food experiences you can have.  Mounds of pureed potatoes and parsnips with lumps of creamy, rich butter and a dusting of white pepper leaves me swooning for Thanksgiving in March.  As a simple puree soup with a hint of truffle- STOP IT.

So, what about my last ingenue de les legumes?  Les navet, or turnip.  As a rule, the smaller a vegetable, the more concentrated the flavor.  It's for this reason that a variety of turnip known as the Tokyo turnip is a favorite among chefs.  Go ahead- Google Tokyo turnip Images and see how many shots you get from tasting menus and wine dinners in elite and aspiring restaurants.  Why more popular?  Simple- the smaller variety is first, more appealing to the eye than the baseball sized purple variety.  Second, the sugars are more concentrated, so when cooking, the flavor is more intense.  I used to braise these little buggers in chicken stock, butter and whole vanilla bean.  Talk about flavor!  They make great accompaniments to lamb and other gamy flavors where a natural sweetness creates balance.  A properly cooked mushroom does the same thing.  Shaved, raw turnip on an appetizer or salad is a more mild substitution for a radish; earthy without the spice.  So, love thy turnip, yo.

Thus ends my defense of the downtrodden of all the food chain.  (Well, not ALL the food chain- we aren't talking muskrat, here).  If you've eaten my cooking, you've likely had most of these Ugly Bettys, and you've likely enjoyed them, too.  So, next time you're thinking about eating or cooking them, don't turnip your nose at them.  (No he dittn't).  Embrace your inner Betty and walk on the Ugly Side. 

Gold in the Air of Summer

Kings of Convenience "Gold in the Air of Summer"

Cool It

Stop what you're doing right now, and have some ice cream.

May Fools: An Indulgent Chef's Table Tasting

Plate design sketches for the May Chef's Table event at the Whist Club

Certainly one of the most enjoyable parts of crafting a seasonal menu is the exclusivity of it all.  Having bragging rights about the first-of-the-season anything makes a nine-course, seasonal menu tasting even more exclusive.  As we continue into the warmer weather, some of the region's best known (and beloved) ingredients show up on the plate.  With more exotic ingredients, we explore more uncommon grape varietals, like marsanne and gewurztraminer.  Classic blends with a twist were featured, like the Schramsberg Cellars Blanc de Noirs- an almost 80-20% blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, and Bonny Doon's Chateauneuf du Pape blend, Le Cigare Volant provided unimaginable depth to the flavors we aimed to coax from the ingredients.  And, so it went something like this...

The Chef’s Table

at the

University and Whist Club

Of Wilmington

May 19, 2011

Reception

Grilled Octopus Escabèche

Chive Blossom Tempura

Schramsberg, Blanc de Noirs, California, 2007

Tempura Fried Chive Blossoms with Rice Wine Dipping Sauce

Braised Octopus Escabeche: in the style of Spain

Amuse Bouche

Mission fig, Foie Gras curls and Blackberry-Balsamic Caviar

First of the Season Mission Figs via California

Figs and Foie, yes; but blackberry balsamic caviar?  Oh yeah.

Friend and Florist Dominique Ho of Le Sentier provided the quintessential May bouquet of Peonies

First Course

Lobster Carpaccio

cape gooseberries, young herbs, nori and persimmon vinaigrette

Navarro Vineyards, Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley, California, 2008

A lobster "carpaccio" with cape gooseberry, citrus herb mix, persimmon vinegar

One of my favorite pairings of the night, the Navarro Vineyards 2008 Gewurztraminer with the Lobster Carpaccio

Second Course

Softshell Crab

spicy almond flour, melon and sorrel

Qupe, Marsanne, Santa Ynez Valley, California, 2009

Another season first: Softshell Crabs awaiting their fate

Almond flour dredged softshell with melon, young sprout salad and sorrel puree

Intermezzo

Peach-Ginger Granita

A clean, refreshing Peach and Ginger Granita- a taste of May!

Main

Smoked Moulard Duck Breast

oxtail ravioli and porcini, dried cherry jus

Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Volant, Santa Cruz, 2006

Sous Chef Andrew Ramage makes the pasta for the oxtail ravioli just hours before the dinner.

The completed dish: house smoked moulard duck breast with oxtail ravioli, porcini and sour cherry jus

Cheese

Delices de Bourgogne, pistachio, truffle honey

Chateau Cantenac-Brown, Margaux, 2003

The sensual Delices de Bourgogne with truffle infused honey, toasted pistachio and feuilles de brick

Dessert

Berry-Almond Shortcake

Vanilla cream and thai Basil

Fresh berries in basil oil, almond biscuit and vanilla clotted cream

Friandises

Nougat, Gianduja Chocolate, Strawberry and Coffee

Caposaldo, Prosecco

Chewy nougat, strawberry-coconut confection, espresso bon-bon and gianduja chocolate square with pine nut

Beautiful chive blossoms; lovely to look at, delicious to eat.

Pithy Remarks

Are you cooking yet this spring?  If so, what are you cooking?  There are several ways to take advantage of seasonal delights, and one of my favorites is infusing the many types of citrus available to us.

Meyer Lemons and Blood Oranges are among the most common citrus fruits we see in spring.  Grapefruits and pomelos also show up, as well as kumquats.  They add bright notes to a salad or fish dish, but consider them for what they are (an acid), and they're a game changer.  

Last weekend, I made an asparagus salad (just blanched) with julienne radish, shaved parmesan and shallot-citrus vinaigrette.  This is true seasonal cooking.  Just replace your vinegar with a combination of citrus juices, and use a fruity olive oil.  Fresh herbs are another way to brighten the dish.  Also, don't neglect the oil-rich rinds of these seasonal gems.  They're loaded with flavor that can be extracted, zested, infused or candied.  Or, if you're old fashioned, twist a little in your martini.

Primo Piatto!

Sometimes, it can be a drag waiting for the weather and ingredients to catch up to the daylight savings time and budding bulbs.  I've been anxiously awaiting some decent artichokes to feature and wild morels to take the stage on the plate.  Ramps will probably be available this week, and, yes, my beloved striped bass is running (and running strong), but cold weather is cold weather, man.  What's a foodie to do?

One of my favorite "bridge meals" from Winter into Spring is the humble Risotto alla Principessa.  You really only need your base ingredients (rice, onion, garlic and stock), some lemon, a good parmesan and nutty-tasting, tender Spring asparagus.  And fortunately for us, Mother Nature is cooperating on the asparagus.  

The northern Italian dish of rice, asparagus and cheese is one of those subtle, classic dishes that focuses on good ingredients, simplicity and method.  The naturally creamy, light and lemony risotto is the perfect meal for when you're feeling warm in spirit, but still need that certain something to take the chill off the bones.  


Ingredients:

• Arborio or Carnaroli Rice  2 cups
• Chicken Stock 4 cups
• Dry White Wine 2 cups
• Onion, small dice  1 small
• Garlic cloves, whole  2 ea.
• Bay leaf 1 ea.
• Butter and Olive oil  4 oz. combined
• Asparagus, chopped on a bias  1# (bunches are usually 2#)
• Grana Padana or Reggiano Parmesan 2 cups
• Salted Butter, cold and diced 1 cup
• Lemon Zest 1 ea.(microplaned is best)
• Fresh Herbs, i.e. basil or chives, chopped 2 tablespoons

Method:

1. Warm the oil and butter in a sauce pot.  Add the minced onion and garlic cloves.  Cook until tender, but not browned.
2. Stir in the rice until coated with oil and butter.  Add the bay leaf.
3. Add the white wine and stir until the wine has dissolved.
4. Add the chicken stock 2 cups at a time, constantly stirring over medium heat.
5. You may need to add more stock, but when the rice grains have begun to "pop", add your asparagus and continue to stir on medium to low heat until the rice is no longer "al dente" (sticks to the teeth).  By this point, the asparagus will have finished cooking.  At once, add the herbs, cheese, lemon zest and butter.  Season with salt and pepper until you taste all the ingredients, not just one or two.  Add more of anything you think it needs to taste "finished".  All the colors should be bright and vibrant, not dull.

Variations include:

• Pancetta or Bacon- add finely diced cured ham at the first stage, with the onions.

• Peas or Favas- in place of the asparagus, quickly blanch your beans or peas and add when it calls for the asparagus.

• Shrimp or Fish- adding a protein like shrimp or scallops enriches this dish; sear some of that precious bass and serve atop the finished risotto.

• Change your Cheese- in place of parmesan, switch it up and add some creamy goat cheese, mascarpone or tangy pecorino.

• Go Decadent- atop any of these iterations, loft a soft-poached egg.

Wine?  Lemony, dry, tart wines from any region like American Northwest, Italian Alto Adige, Austrian gruner veltliners, New Zealand sauvignon blancs or chalky Chablis.  

Thanksgiving 2010: Musings, Tips and Advice for the Wary

Last week, President Obama used a term to describe his impression of the outcome of the mid-term elections.  He said the Dems took a "shellacking" (personally, I liked Baby Bush's description in '06- "We took a thumpin'!"- better).  I thought immediately of the type of photo above and how much disdain I have for food magazines that depict the stereotypical, impossibly glassy roast bird on their November covers when there are so many other non-literal and beautiful foods that make the holiday memorable.  But, hey- sex sells.  More apropos would be a king-sized bottle of Xanax next to some cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie.  So, irrespective of my pet peeves, I've decided to lead off my holiday post anyway with the Turkey as imagined by Rustoleum.

Here are some thoughts on the upcoming holiday.

Today, I read an interesting piece in the Los Angeles Times about how food affects moods, notably, the chemical reactions that take place in the brain- and which ones are real and which are myth.  Among the ones that didn't surprise me (coffee improves energy and mental performance- um, duh.), there were a couple that did.  Eating turkey, for example, it is shown does not induce sleepiness.  

"...each molecule of tryptophan has to compete with many other amino acids to get into the brain, says Elizabeth Somer, a registered dietitian and author of Eat Your Way to Happiness. A Thanksgiving feast will make you groggy, but tryptophan isn't the reason..." 

Or how about chocolate as the cure-all, aphrodisiac, natural-high?  Not so much.

"...chocolate contains many components with the potential to enhance mood, but the chemical effect of each of them is small. It does have low levels of stimulants, but you can get a lot more from other substances," she says. The caffeine content is very low, so coffee is better for that kind of kick (see?). The sugar might give a temporary lift, but it's subtle. And the phenylethylamine that people say is supposed to make you feel in love — well, many foods, including salami, are much higher in phenylethylamine." 

Got that?  Salami, folks.

While we're on the subject of turkey, one of the age-old Autumn quandaries is, "When is the bird done?"  I can tell you that any turkey that comes with a pre-inserted pop-up belly-button is going to be drier than Regis Philbin's jokes.  It's set to pop at 170 F.  This relieves the producer of anyone getting sick if they may have pulled it early.  But, in reality, you can pull it at 160 F and it'll carry over a few degrees, be safe, tender and moist.  That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. You don't want to know what temp I pull it at.  And, all my family is still alive.  Do yourself a favor: get yourself a probe- instant read-out, easy to clean, digital thermometer:  they're twenty bucks. 

Are you cooking for 10 or more?  Just as prized as the second dishwasher has to be the second microwave.  Think about it.  You get everything together early, seasoned and ready to rock- and it's time to pull the trigger on dinner.  You actually have more plates than people, and by the time you get them all to the table some are warm, none are hot.  Letdown.  Load 'em on, zap 'em up, send 'em OUT! Yahhh!!

We're approaching Beaujolais Nouveau time, that third Thursday in November when we're treated to one month-old wine which is usually drunk within two.  I like to think of it as headache in a bottle.  Because it's only barely been fermented 6-8 weeks, comes from the lowest quality vineyards in Beaujolais and is produced in excess of 49 million liters each year.  With Thanksgiving falling so close to the release, consumers typically pay $1-2 more a bottle because stores know they need to have it, and the French know it.  JUST SAY "NO".  

Gamay, on the other hand, the principal grape producing the historic crus of Beaujolais as well as the swill in clown-colored bottles, is ideal for the multi-flavored meal in mid-November because of its versatility.  This isn't really to get you away from drinking other suitable wines for Turkey Day, as much as it is to say- "Hey, if you're gonna drink gamay, why not drink a good one?" The Domaine Ricard Le Clos de Vauriou from the Touraine is one I'll be sipping- or I should say, one I have been sipping for the last six months. Always served with a slight chill on it, it was a great red for a grilled Tuna Nicoise salad in the heat of summer, not to mention a nice bridge to the heartier and earthier foods of Fall.  And now, with everything from pumpkins, mushrooms and turnips on the buffet, to Turkey, salmon, apples and sage- gamay, especially this one, is my choice for Turkey Wine 2010.  And, how does $12 a bottle sound?

The next part is...uncomfortable.  It involves the subject of multiple desserts. 

I enjoy desserts just as much as the next person.  I appreciate the time and effort put into a nice homemade pie or torte, or miniature cakes and cookies.  But, I gotta tell ya' when there are six or more choices for dessert, I can only eat one, maybe two of those choices after all that other food before I approach hemorrhage stage.  And I FEEL BAD for those people who made them when only one piece is taken or, God forbid- NO ONE has touched them because they lost the popularity contest or simply because the desserts have outnumbered the guests.  HOST and HOSTESSES this falls squarely on you.  Now, I know you're going to say that everyone gets to take them home- yadda, yadda, yadda.  Yes, this is true; but, perhaps part of the overindulgence we experience from Thanksgiving is perpetuated by the "more is more" maxim.  We can break the chain now!

Or, maybe I just feel bad about the uneaten desserts.  Pass the Xanax, please.

Phils in Phirst!

Hey how about those Phirst place Phils?  This isn't the first post paying homage to the great Fall classic and our boys in red, and it won't be the last.  Seeing the Phils play the way they played last night makes me excited for the kind of baseball that comes when the weather turns cool, leaves turn to red and kids return to school.  Got any Phillies stories you'd like to share?  How about your favorite meal to eat/cook while watching a game?  Mine?  Something cold, malted and slightly aged- twelve ounces at a time, baby.

Why Is The Rum Gone?!

 

Rum.  There are many luscious spirits that lend themselves to cool summer cocktails, but the most under-rated in the catalog has to be those made with rum.  Vodka and Gin reign supreme, for sure. We've seen the incredible market that exists for vodka, with flavors that range from orange, raspberry, grapefruit and blueberry to red pepper, and the latest rage, whipped cream.  Gin has only recently begun to experiment with flavor infusions, with lime as the first, and certainly not the last.  But, rum stands out in the crowd for it's versatility.  

The most common is white, with gold (or aged) following next in complexity, and then there is dark or black rum.  Primarily distilled from sugar cane juice, either from the molasses created as part of making sugar (Rum Industrial) or directly from the sugar cane juice (Rhum Agricole and Cachaca), it is only made in countries that grow sugar cane.  

One of the newest dark rums on the market begins in the Caribbean and is finished in the states.  Named after the mythical beast that lives beneath the sea, The Kraken is without a doubt the most well-thought-out brand to be released in years.  With it's full mythological history to back it up, Kraken's motto is "Put a Beast in your Belly".  When it comes down to it, Kraken Rum is of good enough quality that it stands up to its hype. I bought a bottle while on vacation after reading up on it, and we kracked one open for happy hour.  As someone who tastes for a living, I immediately began to think of fun and appropriate mixers that might make good cocktails.

We began with tonic.  One of the most refreshing cocktails I enjoy in summer is Mount Gay rum and tonic, with loads of fresh lime.  In fact, if you have access to fresh key limes, the difference in flavor is significant.  On the East coast, Trader Joe's usually sells a small bag for about two dollars.  If you don't have key limes, just double up on what you would normally put in your drink.

The second mixer we chose was another traditional mixer, this one from Bermuda, ginger beer.  While Goslings Black Rum owns the copyright to the legendary cocktail Dark and Stormy, dark rum, ginger beer and lime is another delicious concoction which was said to be invented by the locals as they would watch a hurricane roll in and watch the tourists roll out.  A veteran of several hurricane parties myself, I love this in a big frosty mug, again with multiple wedges of juicy lime and loads of ice.  There never seems to be a shortage for specialty sodas which claim to be the best in show.  Rootbeer has long been a summer favorite for refreshment of all ages.  And, there are dozens of regional rootbeers, often made from various spices and ingredients, mainly the licorice root that gives rootbeer its distinct flavor.

Lastly, cream soda is a Mid-Atlantic favorite, with the appropriate amount of vanilla, cinnamon and spice that makes it the perfect pairing for light-hearted, spiced rum adult beverages. Rum and cream soda? Huuhyeah?!  It's like a liquid spiced wafer.  Easy, though.  The sugars compete in these cocktails, and they go down easy!  Keep plenty of salty snacks on hand, and if you decide to experiment with  cooking, think of using rum as a "sugar" element.  When needed to glaze it is perfect.  As a marinade, use fresh herbs of the summer variety.  

The Kraken Rum is available in just a handful of shops in Delaware right now, at about $20 a bottle.  I've only seen it in one or two restaurants, but mark my words:  once the beast is unleashed, expect the spoils to be sweet.  If you've had Kraken and recommend any recipes you'd like to share, share with Fork 'n Cork readers!

F&C Rewind: An Ode to Campari

 It's that time of year again.  Refreshing, cool cocktails to keep our calm and enjoy the season.  Here's another "rewind"; stay cool!

I never dreamed my life could get so busy or hectic that I wouldn't have time to go out every once in a while and have a cocktail somewhere.  I don't mean a beer, and I don't mean a glass of wine.  I mean a dewy, crisp cocktail delivered in a tall glass or inverted pyramid, otherwise known as the martini glass.   Usually, I go for something that is citrusy and clean; vodka or gin works.  In the summer, it's Mount Gay Rum and tonic with key lime.  The key lime takes it OVER the top.

I am a fan of the nerdy drinks.  I adore pastis.  Set me up with a tall glass, a couple cubes, a shot of the ole Green Fairy and a little pitcher of water, and my world gets just slightly fuzzy and warm like viewing a Seurat up close.    I am gonzo over grappa, armagnac, eau de vie, calvados and cognac.  Single malts?  Yup.  Oban.  Ooooh ban.  Mmmmm.   But, my heart belongs to the bitter lady we know as Campari.  

The Italian appertivo has been around since the 1860's.  It's alcohol content ranges in the mid 20's, but varies depending on what country you drink it in.  Campari is a type of bitters.  Bitters are typically made from aromatic plants, bitter herbs and fruit.  Water and alcohol are added and they are distilled to create their unique, fruity but bitter flavor.  Cynar is a type of bitters made from this process using artichokes.  Amaro (which literally means bitter) is one of the most common digestivos in the world.  Campari's firey red color used to be derived from adding the dye (carmine) from crushed insects as late as 2006.  It's intensity holds when added to seltzer or other mixers, making it an eye-catcher when it arrives to your table.  No wonder Salma Hayek is the poster girl for Campari.  Sassy x 10. 

When all is right with the world, I'm about to sit down with my wife before an extravagant dinner and two frosty negronis arrive.  The negroni is one of the more popular cocktails made with Campari, using 1/3 gin (I use Hendricks), 1/3 Sweet Vermouth (Punt e mes is a more flavorful variety than Cinzano) and 1/3 Campari.  The perfect negroni is measured out, with no liberties taken.  A pulpy piece of orange is the garnish.  This drink is served either on the rocks or up.  For me, rocks if it's a hot day and I'm dining al fresco.  Otherwise, it's up.  I realize there are other versions out there; but this is the purist recipe I enjoy most.  The Americano is Campari, Sweet Vermouth and soda.  Served in a tall glass, it was popular among the 1950s jet-setters and guys in shiny, skinny suits.  In fact, James Bond orders one in the first novel of Ian Flemming's, Casino Royale.  Campari and soda is just that.  Garnished sometimes with lime, it's the one cocktail bartenders f-up the most.  They don't understand that because it's a bitters, it's not the standard 1/3 pour to 2/3 mixer.  What you usually get is a watered down, shirley temple looking drink.  Send it back.  Fill a glass half-way with ice, pour 2/3 Campari and spritz it with soda.

A nice intermezzo for dinner can be made by mixing some campari with orange juice, a little sugar and water and freezing it. Scrape the ice, or granita, into a small sherry glass and serve with a twist of lemon.    

"Oh, Campari, for myself I'm feeling sorry

For when you're not around, I feel quite down.

But, when you are near, and it's time to sup,

I'll take mine with gin and vermouth- this time, straight UP!"