Monday, July 12, 2010

Chef Quote of the Week: Andre Daguin

So, I was really entertained by the quote from Chef Rene Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen this week, and then it occurred to me that a lot of really poignant philosophies come out of the world's most talented kitchens.  So, consider then if you will, the "CQW" a new installment here at F&C.

Last week I revived a story from my formative years at CIA in which I talked about the huge influence of the Daguin family on my career and cooking.  Nestled within the pages of one of my most revered cookbooks was a page I took from the New York Times Sunday Magazine food page, then written by Molly O'Neil, in 1992.  Andre Daguin and his legendary Gascon cuisine were featured, focusing on the various dishes prepared with duck and foie gras, as only Chef Daguin can prepare them.

"In order to change tradition, you must understand tradition"  (he explained as he began to unleash his prune and Armagnac ice cream on the culinary world). This has been one of the most valuable pieces of advice I have lived by in cooking, as it suits the novice in the kitchen as much the most talented executive chef.  It separates the renegade from the respectful.  And, if you're paying attention, it will always show you which chefs are more secure in their cooking.

1 comment:

Serge Lescouarnec said...

Found your tip of the hat to Andre Daguin and linked to it in my post 1 Canard, 2 Daguin, Duck Every Which Way with Father and Son Cookbook on 'Serge the Concierge'

'The French Guy from New Jersey'


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