Chef Quote of the Week: Andrew Carmellini

“I’m going to try not to sous vide anything over there,” he said. “It takes some of the love out of cooking, for me. It takes out some of the fire and smells and caramelization. Some things are just better roasted in a pan.”

Chef Andrew Carmellini of Lafayette

It's been awhile since I've updated the blog, and I feel reinvigorated to do so with all the food and wine activity here lately.  I've met some wonderful new friends who are very talented, and I've gotten a chance to reconnect with some old ones.  

Look for new and more frequents posts in the coming weeks...

Mind Your Peas and Queues

For someone who never had a great interest in the English language in high school, I cannot offer much explanation for how I turned out to be a word nerd.  I recall giving my parents book reports and such to proofread, but I would become agitated when there was a lot more red pen than I had bargained for.  Yes, I wanted to know if I had left out a comma or apostrophe, but not that my syntax was wrong, or that there was a more efficient or eloquent way to express the thought.

It was during college that I became hooked on the New York Times Crossword Puzzle.  Many view it as the pinnacle of puzzles, others, a self-inflicted punishment of puns and wordplay.  But I saw it as a daily lesson on language and an opportunity to bone up on dinner party parlance.  Let's face it: after a few years of doing them on a regular basis, you're going to pick up a lot.  A lot of what I gained was due to my understanding of the Spanish language.  I never studied Latin, but when conjugating words, similar rules apply to most of the romance languages.  Even in English, it only takes filling in a word you think you know how to spell to find out that it doesn't fit, and then you know the right way.  More than anything, I liked the challenge of finishing what I started.

How I became a Grammar Nazi among my friends, is still up in the air.  I still lay no claim to being anything beyond decent at punctuation.  I've always been a chatty person, and so my sentences tend to run on.  So when writing creatively, I take a lot of creative license, which is, of course, another way of saying I don't follow the rules.  This is evidenced in the very post you are reading, as it has taken me three paragraphs to finally mention the subject of this post: The War on Words, a new book written by my colleague, Bob Yearick. 

Bob is the editor-in-chief at Out and About Magazine, a Wilmington, Del., monthly that covers the arts, entertainment and restaurant scenes.  He has been writing for 45 years.  As you can imagine, I was a little intimidated when first approached by O&A for writing a regular column, but I was encouraged in hearing that the staff enjoyed my blog posts.  I saw this as another opportunity to strengthen my writing skills under the tutelage of a seasoned pro.  

Bob’s “The War on Words” column, which debuted in 2007, has become a reader favorite.  Now these columns have been collected in a paperback book. Each page contains a lesson in grammar, punctuation or pronunciation, all presented in an entertaining and sometimes snarky manner, of which Fork-n-Cork is heavy in content.  Still, like crosswords, there are rules, people.  And if we want to be taken seriously in the real world, we need to know how to spell.  

The book reveals what Yearick believes is the most misused punctuation mark and the most misused word, as well as such language niceties as the true meaning of “begs the question.” Hint: it does not mean “raises the question.”
The English language and its abuse, especially by public figures, has been his obsession for many years. “I spent a lot of time in the corporate world and I’m a big sports fan,” he says. “Corporate types and sportscasters and sports writers are among the primary offenders when it comes to misusing the language. They’ve given me plenty of fodder for my column.”

In the introduction to the book, Maria Hess, editor-in-chief of Delaware Today, says, “Bob gets actual fan letters and has become something of a local grammar superhero. He can’t leap tall buildings in a single bound, but he has managed to get thousands of people to care about proper use of the English language. In a world where texting, twittering and email are eroding our writing skills, Bob’s accomplishments are nothing short of heroic.”  

Yes, word nerds rejoice; we have a hero, and his name is Bob Yearick.

The War on Words can be purchased through the Out & About website: www.outandaboutnow.com, for $9.95 plus $3 shipping, or contact Yearick at ryearick@comcast.com. It is also available at Ninth Street Books in Wilmington and the Hockessin Book Shelf. The e-book is available from Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Sony and iBook for just $3.95. 

New Year's Eve Black Tie Gala at the Whist Club

 Our second annual New Year's Eve Black Tie Gala was held last week at the University and Whist Club.  It was a very festive and convivial evening with everyone in formal attire!  All the stops were pulled out for this 12 course food and wine event.

The Chef’s Table

at the

University and Whist Club

Of Wilmington

December 31, 2012

A velvety blend of chardonnay and pinot noir in magnums, 
this grower Champagne was an elegant beginning to the meal

Creamy and rich Fanny Bay oysters from the Puget Sound in Washington State had a lovely melon and cucumber finish to them; they were topped with a sliver of serrano chili.  

Reception

Fanny Bay Oysters

Ponzu-Wasabi and Serrano

Serge Mathieu Cuvée Prestige, Brut, NV

In a salute to a dish in the gorgeous "Eleven Madison Park", we prepared this exotic ice cream made from potato with red sea salt, creme fraiche, chive and American caviar.

 Amuse Bouche

Kentucky Paddlefish Caviar

Potato Ice Cream, Chive

My favorite course of the evening, this foie terrine is layered between a tuile cookie of almond and pretzel, dusted with dark cocoa and drizzled with pomegranate molasses.  The Pineau des Charentes Blanc was provided by Moore Bros. of Delaware.  Thank you to the great tasting team there for an exquisite pairing.

First Course

Foie Gras Terrine

Pomegranate, chocolate, almond tuile

Vieux Pineau des Charentes Blanc, Jean Fillioux, NV

Winter Striped Bass from Maryland; a pool of English pea nage is jumped up in flavor with fine herbs and braised salsify.  Confetti of winter flowers jump off the plate.

Second Course

Maryland Striped Bass

English pea nage, winter flowers

J.M. Boillot Meursault, 2008

As much a comfort dish as it was elegant, this was a beautiful example of thinking
outside the box with flavors.

Third Course

Veal Sweetbreads

pork belly, Grain mustard crème, savoy slaw

Kistler, Chardonnay, Les Noisetiers, Napa,  2010

Intermezzo

Orange-Cardamom Sherbet

Candied ginger, orange zest

Braised rabbit saddle in its own juices with shaved Grana Padana and wild chanterelles.  Hearty, rich, soulful and restoring. 

Game

Braised Rabbit

Handkerchief pasta, golden chanterelles

Domaine Joseph Voillot, Volnay “Vieilles Vignes” 2010

A first for many attendees, this "filet" of ostrich from OK Coral Ranch in California was tender and juicy and just the right foil for cognac and truffles.  The Saint Cosme was revelatory!

Main

Ostrich Filet

Black truffle, faro, Cognac

Saint Cosme, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2005

Another "outside the box" dish, the carrot tartare was fully cooked, but resembled a true beef tartare in every way.  Much credit to Sous Chef Drew Ramage
for this creative and well-executed dish.

Salad

Carrot Tartare

Caper, truffle and brioche toasts

The garden gods were with us, as we landed some fresh Turkish figs accompanied by the smokey Idiazabal from Spain with chorizo-almond and plump winter blackberries.

Cheese

Idiazabal

almond-chorizo crumble, Turkish figs

Camins del Priorat, Alvaro Palacios, 2010

A fun display of milk chocolate bouche de Noel, dark chocolate ganache Christmas tree and Bailey's Irish Cream -white truffle snow man with coconut and apricot.

 Dessert

Chocolate Wonderland

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto, 2000

Mignardises and Coffee

Executive Chef Robert A. Lhulier

Sous Chefs Andrew Ramage and Stephen Seth

Pastry Chefs Debora Saienni

and Michael Preske

In Memory: Dave Brubeck

To live to the age of 91 is an admirable accomplishment, and we must accept that all our jazz mentors will one day pass.  But, Brubeck's passing (one day short of his 92nd birthday), especially at this time of year, is significant for me.  I can't think of a time when I was first learning about jazz that there wasn't a Dave Brubeck.  He was a giant in his art form, and like Bill Evans, had a style that was all his own.  Just listen to this version of "Santa Claus is Coming To Town" and tell me you don't hear that joyous quartet synergy that exists in every one of his recordings.  Somewhere in Manhattan (or Paris) Woody Allen is having a moment to himself.

Take Stock: The 5th Annual Stock Up For Seniors Sale!

About 15 years ago I first became affiliated with Meals on Wheels Delaware when asked to participate in their Celebrity Chef's Brunch while chef at Deep Blue.  Over those years, it's given me immense pleasure and personal satisfaction to be affiliated with this organization.  I have met innumerable good friends, shared some great laughs and memories, cooked in the homes of some wonderful people, drank some amazing wines, and cooked some really great food.  I never dreamed all that fun would actually equate to raising millions of dollars to help provide home-bound seniors in Delaware with hot, nutritious meals.  It must be how The Boss feels when he does a benefit concert!  Everyone wins.

But, that's only half the story.  Now in its 5th year, the Annual Stock Up for Seniors event teams Meals on Wheels Delaware with the warehouses of luxury cookware brands EmileHenry, Rösle, Duralex, Mauviel 1830, and Lékué located in New Castle, Delaware.  The weekend warehouse sale gives Delawareans a chance to stock up on kitchen and cookware at deep discounts while the good people of Emile Henry USA donate proceeds to MOW Delaware.  Another win-win.  

On the evening of Dec. 6, 2012, shoppers will have an opportunity to shop exclusively and get first pick of the sale items, which continues through Sunday, December 9.  A mere $25 (which also goes to MOW) gives you this amazing privilege.  And, just to show you we care, I'll be on hand preparing all sorts of delicious appetizers and snacks for you to feast on while you shop.  I'll demonstrate a classic risotto with locally foraged mushrooms, parsnips and Winter Black Truffles.  Or, how about a simmering pot of Fall Squash and Apple Bisque?  Got that, too.

This is an event that, like M.O.W., is becoming a true Delaware tradition.  But, get your tickets today and get there early, because this event sells out fast!