July Chef's Table: Inspiration

For a chef, stepping outside the comfort zone to dine at a space that is hailed as one of the world's best restaurants can be both exhilarating and unsettling.  There is a certain truth to the question chefs get all the time:  "Are you super critical of food when you go out to eat?"  There are two answers.  I am not when I am dining where I know what I'm going to get.  I am, when there is an enormous amount of hype about said meal.  It's like going to meet your idol:  what if they're an ass?  I can safely say that was not the case last month when dining at Eleven Madison Park in New York City.  

This is not a tribute menu to that meal, nor was it meant in any way to mimic a technique or style.  Simply put, this was the first Chef's Table after having eaten at EMP.  And, between the always pristine produce of Haskell's SIW Farms, just-out-of-the-water seafood and the double digit courses from my New York experience, it became a meal based on inspiration. 

THE CHEF’S TABLE

at the

UNIVERSITY and WHIST CLUB

of WILMINGTON

JULY 21, 2012

RECEPTION

ROCK SHRIMP

CORN

Mumm Cordon Rouge, Brut NV

Warm corn fritter with corn "butter" and baby basil.  Like the "grid" used to choose courses at EMP, I wanted the individual items to focus on only one ingredient and really sing.  The bi-colored corn from Haskell's was sticky with sugar when husked.

HORS D’OEUVRE

RABBIT TENDERLOIN and FIG

CRISP NORI, SOY GLAZE

Imagine the sweetness of fresh water eel; rabbit was wrapped in nori with fig jam and seared.  Sweetened soy and micro beet greens bridge the flavors

FIRST COURSE

MASSACHUSETTES ROCKFISH

CAVIAR SAMPLING, SHAVED KOHLRABI

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre, 2009

I've been doing a variation of a sashimi in this manner.  I don't like to duplicate Chef's Table dishes, but when the quality of fish is so superior, it's hard to treat the fish any other way.  Here three types of tobiko, and one of our own:  persimmon-yuzu beads had all the pop and salt of a real caviar, but with a burst of citrus.

SECOND COURSE

COLD WATER LOBSTER

HIJIKI SALAD, CELERY HEARTS,

Talbott, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, 2010

 Far tastier than it photographed, a sous-vide lobster tail is placed atop hijiki seaweed seasoned with sesame and lotus; braised celery hearts hide beneath, adding a mellow curry flavor, and a reduced lobster stock is emulsified and spooned over the completed dish.  The oak on the wine was subtle, but just enough to grab the nuttiness of the seaweed.

INTERMEZZO

PIMM’S CUP AND GINGER

 One of several inspirations from our dinner was this intermezzo based on a cocktail.  It contained the French spirit "Suze" (largely unavailable in the US) with Italian bitters, ginger and mint.  Our version was made with Pimm's Cup, cucumber water, fresh ginger and orange bitters.  Remarkably floral and refreshing.

MAIN

DUCK BREAST

APRICOT, FOIE GRAS, WHIPPED POTATO

Marchesi Antinori Badia a Passignano Riserva,

Chianti Classico, 2006

 Seared breast of duck with apricot glaze; torchon of foie gras, fava bean and foie gras whipped potatoes.  Toasted lemon thyme and fennel seed crust.  If I never have the lavender honey duck at EMP again, I'll always have this dish to remember it by.  

CHEESE

“SIW FARMS” TOMATOES AND WARM MOZZARELLA

MELON CARPACCIO, SMOKED TOMATO VINAIGRETTE

 So, what's so special about a caprese salad?  When the mozzarella is made moments before it's served (and still warm), followed by heirloom toybox varietal tomatoes, sweet melon and smoked tomato vinaigrette, it becomes special.

DESSERT

“DANCE OF THE SUGARPLUMS”

FIG AND PLUM TARTLET, BUTTERMILK ICE CREAM

Moet et Chandon, Imperial, N.V.

 SIW Farms comes through again with sugar plums and figs, layered in buttery, rich pastry with a scoop of buttermilk ice cream (hiding) and cinnamon tuile.  Served warm, naturally.

MIGNARDISES

HAZELNUT ROCHER, STRAWBERRY COOKIE

 Next Month:  A Tribute to Julia Child

August 15 will have been Julia's 100th Birthday.  We'll be creating a special Chef's Table menu that pays tribute to the dishes and cuisine Julia popularized in her books and television cooking appearances.