And a Bald Man Shall Lead Them...

I frequently blog about dining trends.  I try never to talk about something I don't know, and I try to keep my opinions grounded in reason.  I have never hidden my disdain for chain restaurants, the Food Network and the decline of fine dining.  I read Michael Pollan, but I don't preach him.  I'm a purist, but a realist and above all, imperfect.  But, I am a man of convictions.  I hold integrity in the highest regard. 

At the end of last year, I started to wax prophetic, wondering what was coming down the pike for food-loving friends, family and the industry as a whole.  The most common predictions could easily be seen coming, like the proliferation of food trucks and a smack-down of the darling cupcake by the humble, er- pie. The question for me wasn't if there would be a return to fine dining, but when.  I was just waiting for things to bottom out.  I wanted to see how low it could go before it corrected itself.  So, when foie gras is being served on french fries with gravy or as a slider- it can't be far behind.

But, I felt it in my bones that 2011 would be the year the restaurant industry would finally turn the corner on its malaise and go straight for the jugular.   A full-fledged fight for the slow, but steady return of fine dining. Yesterday was, I believe, the tipping point for that premonition to come true. 

Philadelphia Chef Marc Vetri and partner Jeff Benjamin of VETRI announced they would abandon their a la carte menu at their 36 seat, flagship restaurant to serve only a 12-course chef's tasting experience at $135 per person while losing six seats in the process.  The decision didn't phase me.  Vetri has been awarded just about every accolade you can hope for (all well-earned) while maintaining the integrity of his restaurants, cuisine, and- as some people will point out- brand.  Much chatter is on about a "gamble" and "risk", while people who have never been to his restaurants poo-poo the news as wasteful and exorbitant.  There was a time when elite meant something positive: "the choice or best of anything considered collectively, as of a group or class of persons", so says Webster.  If Marc Vetri and his eponymous restaurant do not epitomize that definition, then I'm Martha Stewart.

The most elite chefs have always lead the world in finest cuisine and highest culinary standards.  If by "risk" and "gamble" people mean "balls"- then, yes- it takes courage, vision, commitment and balls to see your vision to fruition.  So called elite restaurants with similar formats have survived the pummeling the industry took since 2008.  And, it's certainly not an issue of Vetri not being in the same class as Per Se, Alinea, or Charlie Trotter's.  That's why this reads to me as more a savvy, calculated business move with potential for huge success based on a proven track record and a little moxie than a big gamble.

So how does that translate into a swinging of the culinary pendulum?  Well, you needn't be a restaurant insider to read between the lines of Philly Inquirer Craig LaBan's article to see there's a whole cadre of chefs young and old with "pent-up desire" who want to show their chops off, but are beholden to an owner with the jitters or banks with no confidence.  Imagine the restaurant progeny from Vetri alone.  Now imagine the confidence and encouragement a move like this provides them.  Don't think the entire Philly restaurant scene isn't watching and waiting to see what happens.  

Another example: Georges Perrier's Le Bec Fin.  Last fall he announced he would close and cited new projects with down-scaled concepts he would pursue instead.  Well, don't write off LBF just yet; Georges is not closing, and he's not selling the business.  In fact, the same article quotes, "I think I panicked too early and made changes I should never have done," as he reports his table d'hote menus ranging from $45 to $185 are now back up to 80% of his sales. 

The other part of this equation that is critical is the narrowing of seats and focus on filling them.  It becomes a more unique "experience", and for that, I believe people will pay.  Chef's all over America dream about customers walking into their place, sitting down and saying, "Feed me whatever you want.  I trust you."  They want people to let go and submit to their culinary artistry.  You can't do that in a 100-seat restaurant and you can't do it without a proven track record.

No, this revolution won't be with fanfare or fireworks, and it won't be on a Top 10 list in December.  Chef Vetri says, "We are allowing evolution to happen."  This evolution revolution will start by winning small battles in tiny, cozy storefronts like Vetri in food-centric cities, like Philly.  And, a bald man shall lead them...

Us and Them

Hello, and welcome back!  That is to say, thanks for coming back.  I generally have taken a little hiatus after a big holiday to regroup and kick around some concepts for discussion.  I always feel a little more rejuvenated, too.  My first real topic of 2011 has to do with a subject I am very passionate about:  the independent restaurant vs. chain restaurants.

Chain restaurants are all over every highway and byway of America, and they are now bleeding out over the borders to commonly traveled destinations by Americans.   I define a chain restaurant as any dining place that shares a flag (as we call it in hospitality) of the same name, and you can get the same exact meal at any of their destinations worldwide.  They are the anti-restaurant, eating places without a soul.  Think "homogenized".  


I saw two related pieces in the news recently.  One was about Bon Apetit trying to re-brand themselves as being "more about inviting friends over for dinner" as they try to reinvigorate their ever-changing demographic. The other was a short video put together by the National Council of Chain Restaurants citing why people choose chain over "gourmet" restaurants.  Night and day.

Consumer insights provided by expotv.com

There are all kinds of arguments for why someone would choose a chain restaurant over an independently owned and operated one.  But, the one not discussed in the video above is supply and demand.  In other words, there are more of them because the demand is high for them.  Yes, convenience, consistency- all that stuff is important, but it's also important to independet operators, too.  Corporate America knows we are lazy.  And, they are cashing in on us.

Before the advent of the chain restaurant (almost interchangeable with "fast food") some 60 years ago, the local, mom-and-pop place reigned.  Service was folksy but sincere, the owner typically was in the kitchen or running the floor, and it almost always was characterized by a local specialty.  They were as diverse as their geography was vast.  

But, when convenience began to trump originality, the demand became greater for establishments that could snag the best locations.  That is the number one commonly misunderstood fact about chain restaurants: their business is not restaurants, but real estate.  We all know the major axiom in business is about location.  And, the reason they repeat it three times is because people seem to forget it, especially in restaurants.  Finding the best blue chip locations to put a restaurant ensures a healthy life (if the concept is sound).

Meanwhile, Bon Apetit, arguably the reigning elitist food magazine in the US is trying to re-brand themselves as more "food" than "foodie".  More fun dining than fine dining.  Tatoos and lattes.  Crockpots and cupcakes.  

What would we do if suddenly there was an independently owned coffee shop, bistro, steak house, pizza joint or sub shop on every corner of Mainstreet, USA?  For one, we'd have truly local food.  We'd also have truly regional food, with every nuance just a subtle difference to ensure competition and originality.  I don't deny the convenience of a chain, but has food sold its soul for convenience?

I want to hear what you have to say.

Chef Quote of the Week: Maya Angelou

"[Food] is important to live. It's practical. It's also important as an art form..."

 "Its beauty, its preparation and presentation can be like the heart of the art in a person. So while it's practical, it's also esoteric."

F&C Rewind: Snow!

Few things can bring more excitement (and panic) than the arrival of snow to a region that rarely gets it. 

We've always had a strange relationship with snow here in Delaware.  Comparatively, we don't get enough of it for people to rationally behave the way they do.  But that doesn't stop them.  It begins with the ubiquitous grocery store run.  Carts filled to the brim with more food than people could possibly consume in a 72 hour period.  And that's when they call for 4-6 inches.

When it does start to come down, people turn on their televisions, 24 hours a day, presumably for updates.  Now with Facebook and Twitter, you can blurt out the latest forecast for accumulations for all to hear!  And almost everyone will be right.

And, there is always that one neighbor who heads out after the first hour and shovels their sidewalk, despite the fact the forecast is for another 8 hours of precipitation.  The scraping sound of metal on concrete is- most unnatural.

In Wilmington, it's a foregone conclusion that as soon as it begins to snow, the bars fill up in Trolley Square.  Yes, being located in the city actually helps a business when it snows.  My least favorite part is when the Monster SUVs pull into parking lots with two inches of snow on the ground and park like idiots, leaving their vehicles as though they had just suddenly been abducted by aliens.  Yes, there is a downside to snow, Virginia.

I immediately begin to cook something.  Anything.  If it's breakfast I'm making, when we sit down I'm already thinking about what's for lunch and dinner.  I begin to eye up the roasting pan wondering what colossal cut of meat I can seduce marvelous, meaty flavors from.  A soup, a stew, a pot of chili.  Anything with lazy bubbles and little whisps of steam to fill the house with heady, scrumptious aromas.  Now, a crock pot is just too damn slow to cook in.  It's what I cook in when I can't be at home.  But if you insist, do like my mom does on Christmas.  She throws on a batch of apple cider in the pot and busts out the rum.  Now that we're talking about beverages, I'm pretty much down for anything.  Coffee in the morning, cider in the afternoon, Guinness for happy hour, red wine with dinner, port for dessert.

I would like to share my recipe for the most decadent hot chocolate you may ever drink.  As with anything, the final product is determined by the quality of your ingredients.  This one you can't skimp on.  Chef's note:  a little goes a long way.  So, a demi-tasse of this hot cocoa is usually sufficient for even the most avid chocoholic.

Rich Belgian Hot Cocoa

1 Quart Whole Milk

1 Quart Heavy Cream

1 Fresh Vanilla Bean

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup dry, dark cocoa powder (this is most important; use a good quality cocoa)

1 cup semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate (chips or shavings; not big pieces)

Scrape the vanilla bean and put the entire bean into a heavy bottom pot with the milk and cream.  Turn on medium heat.  Add the sugar and the chocolate stirring slowly with a wooden spoon to dissolve the sugar and chocolate.  Once dissolved, sift the cocoa into the mixture and use a whisk to incorporate.  Continue to lightly whisk until there are no lumps and mixture is smooth.  Simmer for 10 minutes.  Ladle into mugs and top with your favorite enhancer.  Kids: whipped cream  Adults:  Baileys and Godiva come to mind.

"Cocoa" Photo credit:  Breakfast- latartinegourmande.com

Billy Taylor 1921-2010

Billy Taylor  1921-2010

We sometimes take for granted some of the jazz legends that are still living.  And so, when one leaves us, it stings a little knowing we won't be treated to any more of their artistry.  An American jazz pianist, composer, educator and jazz legend has passed on.  We will miss you, Dr. Taylor